TOP THINGS TO DO IN MEXICO CITY

Be ready to hit the ground running; there’s a wealth of things to do during a stay in Mexico City, one of the world’s largest cities, home to some 23 million people. The city is a fascinating mix of modern culture and ancient heritage with world-class museums, a vibrant art scene and exciting restaurants.

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Have Camera, Will Travel: A Photo Workshop in San Miguel

Santa Fe Workshops, a renowned photography school based in New Mexico takes things on the road for three consecutive weeks to San Miguel, Mexico every fall. If you love travel, taking pictures and have a basic understanding of your SLR and Lightroom workflow then you’ll savor the chance to move beyond your fundamental skills. I enrolled in a five day workshop led by Jennifer Spelman, a documentary and editorial photographer, entitled “Photographing the People and Culture of San Miguel de Allende’’.  Not only did my photography improve, but I left with a greater understanding of the difference between ‘taking’ a photograph and ‘making’ a photograph. We learned, and practiced, what the great Jay Maisel said: “Get closer. Walk slower than your walking-stand and wait and something will happen.“

The Schedule: Being in a workshop for five full days allows the time for mornings dedicated to class critiques and PowerPoint presentations on techniques, creativity and Adobe Lightroom skills. Afternoons are all about shooting at a different location each day. We shot around San Miguel, at an agave farm in the countryside, in the delightful town of Guanajuato and at the authentic Hacienda Las Trancas with live models. (Dinner at the Hacienda was a highlight) You truly live and breathe photography and have time to get to know your fellow classmates and their own unique styles and visions.

Why a Travel Workshop: On the first morning of class, we watched Jennifer’s  inspiring slideshow of her work. She then said something that encapsulates why you traveled all the way to San Miguel, rather than take a class at your local photo school. I paraphrase, but it went something like this: “For the next five days as much as possible leave everything from home behind and immerse yourself in your art—truly be an artist. Being away from it all in a vibrant and inviting place allows for the passionate discovery of what that means.”

Why San Miguel: Well for one thing, this year, Travel + Leisure readers named it #3 on the list of the world’s best cities, right after Charleston and Chang Mai, and in 2014, Conde Nast Traveler readers voted San Miguel the #1 travel destination in the world. Plus there’s amazing light, vibrant colors, and countless fabulous restaurants and hotels.  The city is safe and friendly with year round consistently pleasant weather. For a detailed itinerary featuring the best things to do and see in San Miguel see our full guide here.

Stay: Santa Fe Workshops uses La Posada de la Aldea as their home base for the three weeks of consecutive workshops they offer. The location is perfect-- just blocks from San Miguel's historic central plaza and with three classrooms it doubles as an onsite school. The extensive grounds are the biggest plus with gardens, fountains, a small swimming pool, and secluded courtyards. The rooms themselves are basic and clean, though tired. Most disappointing was the food in the restaurant. Though lunch was included, I choose to eat my meals elsewhere.

Don’t Miss: Each Monday night during Santa Fe’s sessions, the three teachers from that week’s workshops give a PowerPoint presentation of their work, open to the public, in the beautiful Bellas Artes building in town. It was a fascinating look at three different photography styles and perspectives. As San Miguel is known as a haven for artists with a large expat community it was standing room only. Go early to get a good seat.  

Make Time: I highly suggest that you consider adding a day or two before (or after) your workshop. During the workshop you are busy from morning till night, and though there is some free time and two dinners on your own it is not enough time to fully explore San Miguel.

Up Next: For me, this workshop was just the beginning, lighting a fire to learn more and take my photography in new directions. I would do another Santa Fe Workshop in a second, and would love to try one of their programs at their school in the foothills of Santa Fe. (Home to legendary light and landscape) Other well respected programs with enticing workshops include the Maine Media Workshops and College based in Rockport, Maine and National Geographic Expeditions.

Don’t have time to get away? Check your local area for classes and intensive weekend workshops. In my hometown of NY, I can highly recommend The International Center of Photography (ICP). They offer photography education for every level, from courses and workshops to certificate and master's degree programs.

SAN MIGUEL DE ALLENDE

We have been dreaming of visiting San Miguel de Allende (located in Mexico’s central highlands) since the early 90’s after reading Nothing to Declare by Mary Morris, a true precursor to Eat, Pray, Love. Morris writes of her life in San Miguel, a colonial town that has long attracted artists and expats drawn to its baroque architecture, charming cobble stoned streets, brightly colored buildings and striking light. Jumping at a chance to finally visit, we enrolled in a week-long photo workshop through Santa Fe Workshops, arriving two days early to explore on our own. It was magical to finally get to know San Miguel, considered by many to be one of Mexico’s greatest cities.

Tripper Tips:

San Miguel is not easily accessible—fly through Houston to either Leon (approximately a 90 minute drive) or Queretaro (60 minutes).  Queretaro is a much smaller airport, which translates to less people and an easy check in with no lines.

It’s truly an experience to be in San Miguel on Nov 1 and 2 to celebrate Dia de los Muertos (Day of the Dead) in true style and spectacle. Though the name might sound morbid, it is actually a joyful, epic celebration, a citywide festival with Catrina parades, public altars, dances and plays open to visitors and locals alike.

It’s easy to get your Zen on-- San Miguel has many wellness, yoga and massage spots around town plus a fun organic market on Saturdays. Check the schedule of classes at Lifepath Retreats if you have some extra time.

Stay: We stayed at the luxurious Rosewood San Miguel, designed to feel like a colonial era grand hacienda. A few blocks from the town center and just steps from Juarez Park, the Rosewood is a peaceful oasis, with large spacious rooms, a beautiful pool and lovely gardens. Looking for something more intimate? San Miguel is known for its small, boutique properties. We’d gladly check into the Hotel Matilda, a modern, minimalist property with a contemporary art collection, a chic spa and a noteworthy restaurant Moxi, from famed Mexico City chef Enrique Olvera. (Matilda is around the corner from the Rosewood, also by Juarez Park.) L’Otel is tucked away on a side street right in town; it feels as if you’re staying at a friend’s stylish home featuring a lovely breakfast room, cozy lounge and a private rooftop terrace. With only 4 rooms it’s perfect for a family or a few couples traveling together.

Breakfast: For a traditional Mexican meal, everyone heads to El Pegaso (also popular at lunch) where the decor is funky and festive with "nichos" decorating the walls. Another popular spot is MuRo Café—order the huevos a la Mexicana. Cumpanio has fantastic pastries, it’s a bakery, café and restaurant; perfect for a sit down or a grab and go. A friend swears by bakery La Colmena; “we made this our regular bakery during the trip. This spot is legendary, look for the blue door.”

Explore: Bring comfortable shoes--San Miguel is a walker’s paradise. Prepare to get lost in the streets (it’s half the fun) around the Historic Center, recently named a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Thanks to strict building codes the downtown has stayed true to its colonial roots, it’s a well-preserved museum with colorful facades, hilly cobblestone streets and countless interior courtyards and rooftop terraces. Start at the Jardín, the lively central square that sits facing the neo gothic La Parroquia—possibly Mexico’s most photographed church. Continue walking to the church of San Francisco, then over one block to the Plaza Civica, the original gathering place of San Miguel, dating from the early 1500s. Across the plaza is the Templo de Nuestra Señora de la Salud with its 18th Century facade. Then stroll back to the Jardín for an ice cream at Gelato Doce, be adventurous and try the local flavors such as corn or avocado. Take a seat in the Jardin under the laurel-sculpted trees and join the mix of locals and tourists; all watching the world go by.

Lunch Spots: Cafe Rama, right down the street from the Rosewood, serves fresh, light Mexican food and hands-down the best tortilla soup in town. Every local told us to go to La Sirena Gorda for a casual meal of seafood tostadas and shrimp tacos, try the one with bacon, served in fresh tortillas.  Definitely order the green pozole at the small rooftop restaurant La Posadita.  Next-door, super stylish Quince offers sophisticated dining atop a chic rooftop terrace. Oozing atmosphere, eat healthy California inspired food at the stunning courtyard of The Restaurant. Leave time after lunch to browse the fabulous small boutique attached to the restaurant.

Shop: You can spend your entire trip shopping in San Miguel; there are so many stores around the main square and up and down the side streets. Thanks to Emily Fox of Materia, the founder of the fabulous online Mexi/Cali concept store Materia we were armed with a great shopping list. Emily is a passionate traveler with incredible taste and knowledge especially throughout Mexico. “Appearances are deceiving as there are lots of hole-in-the wall shops where you can find plenty a gem. Don't miss the tiny Casa de Vidrio, which has great glassware. For boutiques, I love bohemian chic Mixta, high end mid-century Insh'ala and romantic Camino Silvestre. Also Y SOMOS, the stunning studio/gallery of artist Patricia Larsen. And then there's Fabrica Aurora, which is a great complex of antique and upscale home stores housed in a converted turn-of-the-century textile factory. With nearly 30 art studios and galleries, in addition to interior design shops, jewelry boutiques and antique stores, allow some time here to explore. Outside of town, Gorky Gonzalez's traditional ceramics in Guanajuato are legendary (you may need an appointment). And Dolores Hidalgo is the famous pottery town nearby.”  Though she hadn’t been, Emily steered us towards chic, minimal Kingsley Market, a small gallery like space on a sleepy street near the Hotel Matilda with a well-curated collection of high-end artisan Mexican handicrafts and accessories. Though it wasn’t local, we couldn’t leave without splurging on a Japanese weaved scarf from Tamaki Niime. Each scarf is one of a kind made from vintage looms and hand dyed in a range of colors—we wanted them all!

Artisan Market: A visit to this colorful handicraft market makes for a fun afternoon wander. Navigate the large number of stands showcasing artisan wares from the region such as: blown glass, plastic woven bags, jewelry, baskets, carved items from quarry stone and mesquite wood, wooden crosses covered in silver charms and hand embodied shirts and dresses. This is a good place to stock up on gifts for family back home with everything well priced compared to the shops in town. The market spans three connecting alleyways about a five-minute walk from the center of town. (Most stands only take cash; so hit the ATM in the central Jardin Square before you head over.)

Sunset Drinks: A must, at least once during your trip, is to have a drink and watch the sunset at Luna Tapas Bar on the rooftop of the Rosewood Hotel. It has the absolute best views (360 degrees) in San Miguel. From Luna you can see everything from the spires of La Parroquia and the other major churches to the reservoir and the mountains in the distance. The food is definitely secondary to the view, but the cocktails are excellent.

Dinner: Without a doubt, La Parada was our favorite meal in San Miguel for delicious authentic Peruvian food served in a lively upscale setting. We’d return to Jacinto 1930’s for the fideo soup with avocado, chipotles and crema, but the dazzling space set in Doce-18 is worth a visit alone. (Doce-18 is a new hotel and concept space in what was the former historic Casa Cohen. It’s been dramatically restored, now part art gallery, part boutique with a gourmet food court, tequila and wine tasting spaces and a soon to open new hotel.) We agree with Emily who told us she could go to “La Mezcaleria every night for simply grilled shrimp and vegetables. A tiny bar/restaurant where each of the (very few) dishes is somehow just perfect--and so are the mezcal cocktails!” We wished we had more time to try what we hear are two excellent restaurants just out of town—the farmhouse De Temporada where local ingredients are the star and Ristorante da Andrea, a surprising Italian spot located in a house with views of the cacti fields.

Cooking Classes: San Miguel is a city of classes and perhaps most famous for its hands on cooking classes. Unfortunately we had no extra time on this trip, but we’re looking forward to trying out Emily recommendations next time: “I loved Marilau,  where we practiced traditional style cooking inside a home--it was like learning your Mexican grandmother's secrets! And years ago we did a class with Kris Rudolph,  where we made delicious hibiscus enchiladas and the best tres leche cake ever. Kris was out of town last time I went, but she recommended Paco Cardenas  and Patsy Dubois.”

Nearby Activities:

  • Take a taxi to San Miguel’s botanical garden El Charco del Ingenio, a wonderful high desert nature preserve, featuring native Mexican plants, cactus gardens, hiking trails, and a view of the wild El Charco de Ingenio canyon.   

  • Explore the pre-Columbian archaeological site of Cañada de la Virgen, just a short twenty-minute drive from San Miguel. The site features pyramids, temples and monumental buildings, as well as artifacts discovered during its excavation.

  • Run by volunteer expats, The San Miguel Library offers a House and Garden tour every Sunday. Tours depart at noon from the Biblioteca to view two private residences. You can purchase your tickets in advance at the library, (20 USD) and all proceeds are used to support educational programs for the children of San Miguel.   

  • Head to La Gruta and swim in the natural hot spring pools, nature’s own spa! Emily recommends a stop at delicious “La Burger on the way back, an upscale "shack" on the side of the road surrounded by cacti. Then visit Atontonilco--this church is often referred to as the Sistine Chapel of the Americas because of its intricately painted ceilings - it's lovely a good combination with a visit to La Gruta.”

Worth the Drive: We wished we had more time to spend in Guanajuato, a beautiful university town with a European feel approximately 90 minutes from San Miguel. (Our afternoon flew by too quickly) While some say San Miguel can feel Disneyesque, Guanajuato reads more local with fewer tourists. Hire a driver to navigate the twisting road, and then soak up the colorful, cobble stoned alleyways, the shady plazas and baroque architecture—all with a different feel from San Miguel. Stop at the Cervantes Museum to get a fill of Don Quixote-inspired art and sculpture, then head to the birthplace of Diego Rivera, now home to a wonderful collection of his art. Don’t skip a ride on the Funicular Panoramico for spectacular views of the whole city and region before heading back to San Miguel.

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PUNTA MITA: SURF, SUN AND SAND

Philip Johnson’s Spirit Lives on at The Glass House

Philip Johnson, one of America’s most influential postmodern architects spent his weekends in a compound in New Canaan, Connecticut, living in perhaps his most famous work—The Glass House. Johnson donated the property to the National Trust and the 49-acre estate opened to the public in 2005 after his death at the age of 98. Just one hour by train from NYC, this unique experience is a must do and an ideal way to spend a day immersed in nature, architecture and art.

Tripper Tips:

New Canaan is everyone’s fantasy of a charming New England town with a surprisingly good selection of restaurants. For your morning coffee before the tour, skip Starbucks and head to local favorite Zumbach’s, just around the corner from the Visitor Center on Pine Street. A long time staple, Sole for Italian fare, has an excellent prix fixe express menu. Ching’s Table is the place for Asian fusion cuisine. Rosie is excellent for salads and Mexican specialties—order the shrimp tacos, one portion is big enough to share. If it’s nice out, sit on the outdoor patio at Locali and enjoy Napolitano pizza and a salad. Gates just reopened after a long overdue décor redo, a solid choice. Other good choices include: Southend, Baldanza, and Cava.

Start: You begin at the Visitors Center in downtown New Canaan, a mini museum chronicling the evolution of the Glass House and the fascinating life of Philip Johnson and his partner of 45 years art curator and collector David Whitney. (Whitney, 33 years his junior, sadly died of lung cancer just months after Johnson.) After a brief introduction, the 10-minute shuttle ride takes you to the property. The only way to visit the property is to book a tour online. We suggest, for your first time to book the 2 hour Glass House and Galleries Tour, but die hard fans can sign up for the extended tour that includes Johnson’s Studio.

The Main Event: The Glass House, a 1,815 square ft. pavilion with no walls, sits high on a hill seamlessly blending with the surrounding landscape. Frank Lloyd Wright famously asked if he should take his hat off upon entering, alluding to the feeling of being outside even while in the house. The neighboring Brick House, designed at the same time, was considered by Johnson to be one single composition.  Over the years the property expanded to 14 structures, creating a architectural theme park that includes Johnson’s Studio, Da Monsta, the Lake Pavilion and separate Sculpture and Painting Galleries. Johnson and Whitney amassed a large and important collection of contemporary art and sculpture during their lifetime, much of which they donated to MoMa.  Still, many major works remain in the trust and are shown at the Glass House Galleries. The Painting Gallery presently has Frank Stella’s on display, with the newly renovated Sculpture Gallery set to reopen soon.

Go Now: In celebration of the 10th anniversary of the opening of the Glass House and the 110th anniversary of Johnson’s birth, renowned Japanese artist Yayoi Kusama has installed a version of her famous infinity room with red polka dots covering the entire Glass House. (Only for the month of September.) Kusama also created a new interpretation of her Narcissus Garden, that is open till the end of the season. Sparkling and moving on the Glass House pond the 1,300 stainless steel spheres are a breathtaking sight. A vibrant red pumpkin, her signature piece, completes Kusama’s landscape installation, also on site till the end of November. Kusama and Johnson had both an artistic and personal connection making this tribute even more meaningful.

Best Time: Our tour guide told us she loves November, “half the leaves are on and half are off, though all seasons have their individual charm.” (Note: The Glass House closes for the winter season.)

Shop: The design store at the Glass House Visitor Center has a wonderful collection of curated books, furniture, objects, and works on paper. A limited edition Glass House snow globe (Numbered Edition of 300) has been designed exclusively for the Kusama installation—a wonderful souvenir of  “a modern icon in a nostalgic representation.” If you have more time, stroll the boutiques on New Canaan’s Main Street.

 




 

Little Palm Island: Your Own Private Idaho in the Florida Keys

The Florida Keys are an archipelago of over 1,700 islands stretching 120 miles off of Florida’s southern tip. It’s an extremely scenic drive from Miami along U.S. 1, across bridges and causeways, on a narrow stretch of land surrounded by the Atlantic Ocean and the Gulf of Mexico.

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Miami: A Perfect Day in South Beach

There’s been a lot of buzz about the new 1 Hotel in South Beach, an eco friendly beachfront hotel occupying an entire block on Collins Avenue. This is the second property from 1 Hotels, following in the green footprints of their first hotel in NYC. 

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Tennessee: Local Take with Eric and Mandee McNew of Knox Foodie

Photo credit: Don Dudenbostel

Photo credit: Don Dudenbostel

Daytripper travels to Knoxville, Tennessee with Eric and Mandee McNew of Knox Foodie, a website that chronicles their food adventures. The South is a hot culinary destination and here Eric shares his ideal day in his hometown. “Knoxville, known by its residents affectionately as “The Scruffy City”, is in the middle of a mini renaissance. The food scene has started to come into its own after a too long love affair with chain food. There are some big name newcomers, such as star chef Joseph Lenn, who after ten years at Blackberry Farm is opening his own restaurant. Knoxville just won a large grant to create new mountain bike trails, and the waterways are healthier than they have been for decades. The once scrappy downtown is now bustling with city dwellers. Knoxville makes a perfect spot for a long weekend or as an outpost while visiting the Great Smoky Mountains National Park, just a few minutes away.”

Tripper Tips:

Eric and Mandee say…Downtown Knoxville's upscale, boutique hotel The Oliver lands you right in the middle of downtown within walking distance of many of my Knoxville highlights. If you're lucky, you can get a seat at the speakeasy inside the Oliver called The Peter Kern Library. Seating is quite limited and they do pick and choose who can go in, so be prepared to venture to one of the other fine beverage establishments if they are at capacity.

Splurge and stay at Blackberry Farm, 30 minutes away in Walland, set on a 4,200 acre ranch at the foothills of the Smokey Mountains. Check the schedule for special weekend events such as photography workshops, wellness weekends, food and wine experiences and concerts in the barn.

Morning Wander: Start your Saturday morning with a trip to the Market Square Farmer’s Market. From May until early November, farmers, artisans and food trucks take over the Market Square district of downtown Knoxville. Whether you’re looking for the freshest tomatoes, sweet corn, foraged mushrooms or Lambsquarter greens, you’ll find something interesting to fill your shopping bag. To fuel your day, you can grab a cup of pour-over coffee from Old City Java and grab a quick snack from one of the many fine food trucks. If you’re more health-conscious, Benefit Your Life has outstanding gluten-free munchies. Enjoy the talented buskers on every corner, and there’s a fountain fit to play in the square center. 

Breakfast: After getting your fill of shopping at the Farmer’s Market, walk a couple of blocks down to Central Street for a proper Southern breakfast, with a Latin flair at Olibea. Chef Jeff DeAlejandro’s small restaurant in the Old City district immediately became a landmark when it opened. The weekly torta, using vegetables available seasonally is a must! 

Get Moving: You will need some exercise once you’re finished with breakfast at Olibea!  An excellent choice would be exploring Knoxville’s Urban Wilderness at Ijams Nature Center. Enjoy the easy-to-walk 12 miles of trails at this 300-acre urban green space. Rent a canoe and float on Meads Quarry Lake, or bike the 9 miles of beginner to intermediate trails including a trip through the “Keyhole”, a large Tennessee Marble pathway that is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Test your skills at the Ijam’s Canopy Zipline Experience, and the kids can explore the whimsical Jo’s Grove.

If Water Sports are More Your Thing: Kayak, canoe and stand up paddle board rentals are made available by River Sports Outfitters at ljams, the Cove in Farragut and their Sutherland Ave location. Knoxville is a town that loves the water so access is easy to find no matter where you are in town!

Lunch: Returning downtown, visit Holly’s 135 for a lunch fix. Chef Holly Hambright has brought her seductive flavors downtown to 135 Gay Street. Her weekend menu includes brunch sandwiches named after local friends, delicious curated cocktails, and a new addition of Italian favorites. Chef Holly’s other successful endeavors: Holly’s Eventful Dining (a catering company which frequently wins Best Catering awards in Knoxville), Holly’s Homberg (a weekday lunch and weekend dinner spot), and Holly’s Corner (a sandwich and soup lunch spot and music venue). 

Drink: In the afternoon, book a tour with Knox Brew Tours  to discover some of Knoxville’s established and up-and-coming breweries.  It’s a fun bus ride across the city on a 3 to 4 hour guided tour. Knoxville’s brewery scene is currently exploding with an expected 5 new breweries and at least one new distillery opening by the end of the year. There are flavors for any beer lover. There’s even a tour that lets you visit some of the not-yet-open breweries so you can taste beer that’s not yet available to the public! 

View: If you prefer something a little less boozy, head across Henley Street to World’s Fair Park (site of the 1982 World’s Fair) to check out the skyline from the observation deck of the Sunsphere and catch the latest exhibits at the Knoxville Museum of Art. There you will experience local, national and international art alike. 

Dinner: There’s a quaint little spot in the Sequoyah Hills neighborhood that’s a great place to unwind and enjoy unique Southern flavors. Chef Drew McDonald and his wife Bonni quietly opened The Plaid Apron in an almost hidden location and it has become a go-to spot for both dinner and their famous brunch. A new Monday tradition is their Fried Chicken and Champagne dinners. Each week Chef Drew uses locally provided vegetables to accent his delicious fried chicken thighs. Also look for specials like: Sheep’s Head with seared romanesco, fennel and charred carrots, the Mitchell Family farm ribeye, and the addictive southern club with chicken thigh, braised local collard greens, garlic aioli, and Benton’s bacon on a Ciabatta. Here’s a tip: their brunch burger may also be the best burger in town!

After Hours: Late night drinks abound in Knoxville. A solid choice, with a great mix of fans is the Public House. The friendly bartenders mix intricate cocktails using house made shrubs and tinctures. There’s also a varied selection of craft beer and an impressive list of liquors including the occasional appearance of Pappy Van Winkle. If you’re visiting on a Sunday, check to see if they are hosting one of their Sunday Suppers. During these occasional dinners, local invited chefs host a full family style dinner. The Public House offers a selection of gourmet hotdogs, (Try the Kim Chee Dog), charcuterie, and seasoned popcorn for when the late night munchies hit.

All Seasons: Knoxville continues to grow with more adventures on the horizon, but the annual traditions are still not to be missed. In the fall, be sure to head over to the University of Tennessee for tailgating and college football the Big Orange way. In the winter, Market Square turns into a winter wonderland complete with hot chocolate and ice-skating. You can also enjoy a trampoline adventure at several places around town. Be sure to visit often so you do not miss anything Knoxville has to offer!

Honorable Mention: There’s more good stuff to eat…

Bida Saigon, an out of the way Vietnamese restaurant that serves the city’s best Pho. Southern elegance comes at a price, but the Grill at Highland’s Row is perfect for a special occasion. Knox Mason – is a small upscale southern spot from a Blackberry Farm alumni, Chef Matt Gallaher. From his tiny kitchen, Gallaher produces some of the most unique offerings in town. Knox Mason shows up very frequently on lists of top restaurants in Knoxville. Prepare to wait for a seat, but it’s well worth the wait! It’s All So Yummy Cafe serves gourmet grilled cheese and homemade Hilton Head Ice Cream, on the West side of town. Dead End Barbecue, from local BBQ champs turned restaurateurs has two area locations offering traditional smoked meat and southern vegetables. 

 

Social: Follow Eric and Mandee’s food adventures in Knoxville and beyond @ http://Knoxfoodie.com and on Twitter, Instagram, and Facebook.

 

 

THE OREGON COAST

Photo by Grace and Jaden

Photo by Grace and Jaden

The Oregon Coast is part of the great Pacific Rainforest, the largest temperate rain-forest in the world. Stretching 350 miles from Astoria to Brookings the scenery is stunning at every turn. Beautiful, wide sandy beaches set against dramatic rocky coastlines call out for long walks no matter what the weather. Just under two hours from Portland, the town of Cannon Beach is known for Haystack Rock, an icon of the Oregon coast and a charming place to spend a few days.

Tripper Tips:

The weather on the coast can be unpredictable. December- February is rainy season with late spring becoming drier and summer the driest. A magical part of being on the coast is experiencing the atmospheric changes—the fog rolling in, the clouds thick as a wall surrounding Haystack Rock, the sun bursting through the maritime layer—all beautiful. Be prepared by bringing layers! For hiking enthusiasts we strongly recommend that you check out Saddle Mountain which is about a 20 minute drive from the Stephanie Inn. The hike begins at an elevation of 1650 feet and  climbs to a  height of 3290 feet over  2.75 miles of  fairly steep  terrain. The challenge  pays off handsomely for those who refuse to  quit.  From the summit (on a clear day) you are able to see the Columbia river feeding into the Pacific Ocean in addition to the peaks of Mt Rainier, Mt. Hood, Mt St. Helens and Mt Jefferson.  Bring plenty of water and maybe even a picnic lunch to enjoy up top!

Stay: Check in to the three-story Stephanie Inn, right on the beach with sweeping views of Haystack Rock and the needles. Rooms are large and very comfortable, if not quite stylish, and top floor rooms have spacious balconies; perfect to watch sunset. The vibe is sweet, rather than sophisticated, with charming touches including an afternoon wine tasting hour, evening nightcap at 9, and homemade cookies available all day. (Stored in the ceramic house, next to the front desk.)

Coffee: After or before the complimentary breakfast at the hotel head to the adorable Sleepy Monk, for very good organic coffee roasted right in Cannon Beach.

Hike: Walk in the footsteps of Lewis and Clark at Ecola State Park, just a 5-minute drive from downtown Cannon Beach. This is one of the best spots for panoramic views of the Coast—the sea stacks and small islands to the South, and to the West, Tillamook Rock, Oregon’s only offshore lighthouse. There are both walking and hiking trails and beach access at Indian Beach, popular with surfers. We hiked the 4-mile Tillamook head Trail climbing up through a tall forest of Sitka Spruce before reaching the top.

Lunch: How can you not love the concept of the Screw and Brew: half hardware store, half restaurant. The funky space more than delivers with good burgers, salads and fish sandwiches.  At Ecola Seafoods, a fish market with a bunch of tables, the packed house doesn’t seem to mind the no-frills-atmosphere as they happily consume steamers, clam chowder, fish and chips, and grilled locally caught salmon or halibut. The fresh Dungeness crab meat cocktail and a whole cooked crab were the clear favorites at our table.

Town: Cannon Beach is a cute beach town with shops and galleries. If the line isn’t too long at Osburns, get an ice cream and walk around after lunch.

Beach Biking: The Stephanie Inn has bikes for guests to use; don’t miss the opportunity to ride them on the beach. The sand at the waters edge is hard packed, making for a great ride. At low tide you can go for miles. We rode in the direction of Tolovana State Beach, continuing past Silver Point and Humbug Point and turning around at Hug Point. Along the way the scenery constantly changes; the crowds by Haystack replaced by isolated stretches of beach, sea caves, high dramatic cliffs, and an old road bed that is now a path of barnacles and green algae.  (If you just want to play around, recumbent bikes can be rented at Family Fun Cycles at Tolovana Park.)

The Rock: At low tide, walk right up to Haystack Rock to explore the tidal pools where kids of all ages are looking for starfish, crabs, shrimp and anemones. Tufted Puffins arrive late spring and summer to join the thousands of birds already calling Haystack home. Friends of Haystack are on hand to answer questions and to safeguard the ecosystem of this incredible monolith, formed from lava flows millions of years ago.

Dinner: When I mentioned to a friend I was visiting Cannon Beach, she told me stop what I was doing and immediately call EVOO for a dinner reservation. She was so adamant, that I didn’t argue, and I was lucky enough to score a reservation. Chef Bob Neroni and his wife Lenore Emery have been welcoming guests for over 10 years to their unique venue, a combination cooking class and fine dining experience all in one. Watch each dish prepared with lively discussion from Bob and Lenore, who have a light banter that comes from years of experience. They use only the best ingredients--organic, local, and seasonal in their Mediterranean inspired menu. The food was delicious, sophisticated and layered, and the wine pairings were well thought out and complimentary. This was a fun night out and no visit to Cannon Beach would be complete without a stop at EVOO.

Night Skies: Sunset is late in the summer, sometime around 9PM, allowing you to pack the most in a day. Luck plays a part here, as one day the colors can be spectacular and the next night a wall of clouds can roll in shutting down the sun splash. As the daylight fades away, a surprise awaits, as small beach bonfires begin doting the beach in small pockets for miles.

Must do: Arranged ahead of time, the Stephanie Inn will set up a beach bonfire for you complete with all the s’mores fixings. Song lyrics for Kumbaya not included.

**A special thank you to photographer Grace Hurtienne of Grace and Jaden, a husband and wife team who specialize in wedding and travel destination photography and cinematography. Click here to see their stunning photographs and the schedule for their upcoming workshops.

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OREGON: LOCAL TAKE - A DAY IN PORTLAND

OREGON: LOCAL TAKE - A DAY IN PORTLAND

Christiana Hedlund was born and raised in the Beautiful Pacific Northwest. A gypsy at heart, she has always been fascinated by the diversity of our world's cultures. When she's not on the road, painting, studying, or looking for new portrait subjects, you can find her locked in her studio in Portland, Oregon. Often, holding a brush in one hand and a cup of strongly brewed coffee in the other. View her talented work here, and check out her ideal day in her hometown. 

Tripper Tips:

Sleep at the centrally located The Nines across from Pioneer Square or the hip Ace Hotel housed in a historic landmark property.

Get out of town…less than 2 hours away visit the Willamette Valley, Oregon’s famous wine region. Or head to Cannon Beach, a 2-hour drive and stay at the Stephanie Inn.

Can’t get to Portland, but happen to be in NY, head to Pok Pok in Brooklyn. A sensation when it first opened, it has now moved to a bigger space across the street from the original. Order extra wings, they are addictive.

Start: A perfect day in Portland has to begin with a good cup of coffee. Our city has some of the best small batch roasters in the world. Start at Heart on E Burnside. They roast their coffee in the middle of the shop so you can take in the aroma while you sip your americano. Heart is also impeccably designed, so I like to spend a few moments just looking around for inspiration. 

Shop: Next door to Heart is one of my favorite shops in Portland, Palace. I call Palace my girly wonderland. It is an artfully curated boutique with a mix of vintage and new clothing, specialty food, organic body products, perfume, ceramics, paper goods, and artful little things. The girls that work there are lovely and French gypsy jazz is always playing.

Eat: By now you’ve probably worked up an appetite. I’d walk down the block to The Screen Door for some southern brunch. If the line is too long, and it usually is, I’d head to Broder or to their NE location Broder Nord. Broder is a Scandinavian breakfast place that is also tastefully designed and the food is always flawless.  Try the Lefse (Norwegian potato crepes) or the Aebleskiver’s (Danish pancakes) with lemon curd and lingonberry jam.

Get Moving: If it’s sunny outside I’d spend the afternoon going on a walk in Forest Park.  Forest Park is one of the largest urban-forested parks in the country. Connected to Forest Park is the Japanese Gardens, which is also very lovely and perfect for a stroll if you don’t want to hike.

West Side: If the weather is rainy, I’d stay on the west side of town and make a visit to the Portland Art Museum and Powell’s Books. PAM has a pretty solid permanent collection and a nice selection of NW Native American art. Powell’s, in the Pearl district, is dubbed Powell’s City of Books, and claims to be the largest independent new and used bookstore in the world. I could easily spend all day here getting lost in book heaven.

Dinner: Head back to SE for dinner at Pok Pok on SE Division St. Lines can be long here but it’s worth the wait to try Andy Ricker’s thai food. Some of my other favorites are Bollywood Theatre (Indian food), Le Pigeon (French), and Olympic Provisions Northwest.

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Miami: A Grown-up Spring Break

When you picture Spring Break, do you think of college girls gone wild and red solo cups? Yes, there are parts of Florida infamous for all of that (and then some), but for those of us who’ve outgrown those party days there’s still the alluring draw of sun and warmth to ease the chill of North East winters. March and April usually promise ideal weather in Florida and a weekend in Miami at the Edition Hotel makes for a very civilized Spring Break. You can still have that cocktail, just out of a nice chilled glass.

Tripper Tips:

For another very personal art tour…visit the De La Cruz Contemporary Art Space in the ever-growing and transforming Design District. Works from the private collection of art world collectors Rosa and Carlos de la Cruz are housed here in a new 30,000 square foot space. (Closed Sunday and Monday.)

Eat in the courtyard at Michael's Genuine Food & Drink, Chef Michael Schwartz opened his restaurant in the Design District back in 2007 showcasing local fresh ingredients and the crowds have been coming ever since. If you build it, and it’s delicious, they will come!

Check In: They may seem like strange bedfellows, but the partnership of legendary hotelier Ian Schrager, the man who many say invented boutique hotels, and Marriot International delivers. I for one was doubtful; Marriot is not exactly a chain known as hip or high end, yet this upscale move for Marriot to create a luxury brand has been big a success so far.  Just look at the popularity of The London Edition and its hot restaurant Berners Tavern.  The brand new Miami Edition is light and airy, an expansive gold and white lobby is filled with tall pots of green plants and numerous public spaces.  Rooms are all beige—clean, calm and contemporary. Set on 3 1/2 private acres in the former Seville Hotel there are two pools, one for the kids, and a beautiful beachfront area. Located in currently hip Mid Beach, a short walk from South Beach, it’s a perfect fit for families or couples. 

Breakfast: Style by Schrager, food by Jean Georges Vongerichten. Have breakfast outside at Matador Terrace, overlooking the beach and pool. Both the terrace and the inside Matador Room echo the flavors of Jean Georges’ ABC Cocina in NYC, a modern interpretation of Latin cuisine.  At breakfast along with the typical egg and pancakes try the huevos rancheros. Lunch brings chipotle chicken or fish tacos and a delicious, now somewhat signature pea guacamole. Inside the hotel, Market at Edition is a stylish mix of a classic 24-hour coffee shop and gourmet food hall —offering specialty pizzas, a ceviche and raw bar, charcuterie, sandwiches, juices and smoothies, and a nice selection of wines.

Art:  It’s truly a family affair at the Rubell Family Collection (open Wednesday through Saturday)! Major players in the art world, Don and Mera Rubell have been acquiring art since the 60’s and with their son Jason created a 45,000-square-foot home for their collection in a former DEA warehouse in Wynwood.  This was back in the early 90’s, way before Wynwood was trendy. Now one of the world’s largest privately owned contemporary art collections, featuring such well-known artists as Basquiat, Haring, Koons, Hirst, Warhol, and Cindy Sherman.

Don’t Miss: I’d been hearing a lot about the Wynwood Wall’s and walking around all I kept thinking was wow—how had I not come here sooner. The late Tony Goldman had a vision to transform this warehouse district, through art, and it has dramatically changed the neighborhood—both visually and commercially with over 70 galleries, hip restaurants, eclectic stores,  juice and coffee bars. Recently, I have seen the gentrifying power of urban art in Cartegna, Buenos Aires and closer to home in NY, but this may be one of the most inspiring examples of open-air street art created by some of the world’s greatest street and graffiti artists. What struck me most was that beyond the park area known as the Wynwood Walls and Doors, the murals have exploded and expanded in all directions throughout the neighborhood--it is really something to see, explore and experience.

Eat In The Walls: Located right when you enter the square, eating at Wynwood Kitchen and Bar is to be fully immersed in the murals while enjoying dishes from a delicious Latin-influenced menu. Killer cocktails, a large outdoor patio and amazing art everywhere make for a flavorful and colorful lunch.

Afternoon: Relax at the pool or beach back at The Edition. The late afternoon light and wind brought tons of kite surfers for a magical show. And I was surprised at the amount of sand bars there were on either side of the hotel beach. I watched a group of guys playing soccer out on one before heading to the beachside promenade for a run. Finish with a cocktail at Tropicale located next to the pool.

Dinner: Where to eat is a hard decision these days in Miami with so many excellent choices. If you only have one night I’d head to the Design District to eat in the lovely outdoor courtyard at Mandolin. My Greek friend told me not miss the Kefte, better than any she had eaten in Greece. Everything was delicious! We loved the dips on the Greek sampler—the hummus, tzatziki, followed by a perfectly grilled fish and lamb chops. Funny enough the biggest hit of the evening was the barley salad—bursting with flavor from the combination of frisee and arugula with apples, mint and pomegranates. Dare I say that someone at our table said the food was better than anything they had in 2 weeks traveling around the Greek Islands last summer?

If you want to stay local,  stroll down the beach to Soho House and eat in the tree lit garden at Cecconi's for excellent Italian food.  We all shared some salads and pizza to start; the spaghetti with lobster was a big hit.

If I lived in Miami I’d be a regular at Pubbelly Sushi. The menu has innovative rolls such as Wagyu Beef Tartare and Porkbelly and Clams that you just don’t see on most sushi menus. Don’t miss the Screaming Orgasm, Rock Shrimp Tempura Roll, and the addictive Big Eye Tuna, served over crispy rice with truffle oil. Located next door to to the original Pubbelly, both are worthy destinations in the quieter section of South Beach known as Sunset Harbor. With a no reservations policy dinner is packed, lunch tables are easier to come by.

 

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